Argiolas wines showcase the island character of Sardinia

The remote island of Sardinia, perched in the Mediterranean 125 miles west off the Italian peninsula, has been making wine since the days of ancient Rome. Its modern reputation for good vino, though, is only now gaining traction, following a dramatic consolidation of vineyards in the 1980s when established producers like Cantina Argiolas decided to refocus with modern winemaking methods on quality rather than quantity.

Argiolas, whose third-generation owner Antonio Argiolas will be hosting a wine dinner at Cicala on March 3, produces a range of the island’s signature grapes. The crispy, citrusy white called vermentino is the most important to know, and at $12.99 retail for a bottle of Argiolas Costamolino, which also has piney herbal note, it’s one of the best values around to quench a platter of grilled seafood or a bowl of clams with fregola Sarda. Sardinia, which was ruled for 400 years by the kingdom of Aragón, is also known for lusty transplanted Spanish reds like cannoneau (Spanish garnacha) and Carignano (Cariñena). Argiolas’ entry-level cannoneau, Costera, is a fantastic table wine for $14, its brawny black fruit ripe with sour dark cherry and spice. Sardinia’s potential for truly great modern wines, though, is obvious in some of the higher-end Argiolas offerings, like its renowned Turriga, a highly concentrated carignano-cannoneau blend which can be special-ordered through Pennsylvania’s state stores. Cicala also sells Argiolas’ 100% carignano riserva Is Solinas by the bottle ($125), and its deeply jammy blackberry fruit shows notes of dark licorice, tangy tamarind, and an almost musky, earthy spice I’d pair with roasted lamb, duck, or ragù.

The winery’s founder, Antonio Argiolas, the grandfather and namesake of its current owner, Antonio, lived to be 102. So when Sardinians say, “A kent’annos,” their version of the famous toast, “May you live 100 years,” they actually mean it.

Argiolas wine dinner March 3 at Cicala (Divine Lorraine Hotel, 699 N. Broad St.), $95 for five-courses with pairings. Argiolas Vermentino Costamolino available retail in Pennsylvania $12.99 a bottle (PLCB code 75977 for 2017 vintage); Argiolas Cannonau Costera, $13.99 (code 75982); Argiolas Is Solinas Carignano del Sulcis DOC Riserva available by special order in state stores ($39.99 code 611746), or by the bottle ($125) on Cicala’s wine list. Argiolas Turriga Isola Dei Nuraghi IGT 2015 available by special order, $73.99 (Code 616090).