Chef Mike Stollenwerk, whose zigzagged career path has taken him all over Center City Philadelphia, has resurfaced:

In Haddonfield.

He and his girlfriend, Felice Leibowitz, a front-of-the-house pro, have opened Two Fish - a 24-seat BYOB - at 26 S. Haddon Ave. The location has seen turnover from such restaurants as Ralic's, Veronica's, Hamburger Hill, and Jalapeños Grill.

They're going for intimate but casual, with wooden tables the couple made themselves.

Stollenwerk keeps things simple on the menu: five apps, five entrees (under $30), three desserts.

They serve dinner Wednesday to Sunday, and after a couple of weeks, will add Sunday brunch. The Sunday dinner offering, incidentally, will be a revival of his Little Fish offering of yore: a $28 fixed-price, five-course menu - no selections.

The Jersey Shore-bred Stollenwerk hit the city radar nine years ago when he took over Little Fish, which was named Bon Appétit magazine's third best place to eat seafood in the USA after the takeover. From there, he added Fish, which had two incarnations in Center City over its wild three-year run, and very briefly Fathom, on Girard Avenue in Fishtown. He also had a role at Head House Crab & Oyster Co. on South Street for a hot minute.

His last stop was 26 North in Old City, which he left earlier this summer; that restaurant space soon will become a BYOB called Wister under new management.