Korean fried chicken gets a slightly different approach at the new bbq Chicken, which opened this week in the simple walk-up storefront at 928 Race St. in Chinatown (267-519-8303) that last was the short-lived Chi Ken.

KFC typically is fried twice in peanut oil or vegetable shortening at two temperatures to achieve the crispy coating. At bbq — whose name means "best of the best quality" (not "barbeque") — the cooks use olive oil and fry to order only once.

The result: chicken that's crunchy and a tad less oily on the outside and just as juicy inside as many competitors, including the nearby Bonchon.

Cheesling chicken at bbq chicken, 938 Race St.
MICHAEL KLEIN / Staff
Cheesling chicken at bbq chicken, 938 Race St.

Bbq, a South Korean franchise with 16 locations in the United States (including Assi Plaza in North Wales), sells drumsticks, wings, and boneless dark-meat varieties with assorted sauces, from mild (soy garlic and honey garlic) to hot (red hot garlic).

Pay special attention to the sweet and spicy gang-jeong and to the cheesling (which is coated with two powdered cheeses).

It's not for the dainty, so counter clerks hand out plastic gloves to keep your hands clean.

Hours are noon to 11 p.m. weekdays, noon to 2 a.m. weekends.

In mid-February, the shop will add the first U.S. location of Tsaocaa — say it "tao-tah" — a tea stand.