Four restaurant openings in four years seems like an average pace in this day and age.
Friday, July 21 will see Shawn Darragh and chef Ben Puchowitz opening Cheu Fishtown (1416 Frankford Ave.) – a larger, upgraded, more polished version of the snug, graffitoed Cheu Noodle Bar, on 10th Street near Spruce in Washington Square West, and its smaller offshoot at the Whole Foods near the Art Museum.
They also own Bing Bing Dim Sum on East Passyunk Avenue, serving more riffs on Asian street food.
The stone building was a police horse stable in the late 1800s, and was used for police cars early in the 20th century. Its facade is pretty much as it was back then.
Interior by Kate Rohrer of Rohe Creative is reminiscent of 10th Street's and includes a red wood bar, lighting fixtures by Puchowitz's brother Zach Puchowitz, and a wild black-and-white mural by Yok & Sheryo.
Darragh and Puchowitz are serving some familiar Cheu chews, including brisket ramen, miso ramen, and black garlic wings, but overall the menu is less focused on noodles. The kitchen, overseen here by Justin Bacharach, also is considerably larger, allowing for shareable plates such as Jewish-style brisket with moo shu pancakes.
In addition to three large-format cocktails ($28, designed to serve two to four people), the bar list includes eight beers on draft, served in frosted mugs. Also on draft are a sake and cold brew from La Colombe, down the street.
Hours are similar to 10th Street's: 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. Monday to Friday, noon to 11 p.m. Saturday, and noon to 10 p.m. Sunday.