Le Coucou: Stephen Starr's smashing New York success and surprising evolution

NEW YORK - The slender tapers are glowing bright over tables draped with linens laid upon linens. The impeccable service staff appears table-side to whisk away the crumbs and ladle a magical bouillon from a shiny copper pot over rabbit loins that were already near-perfect. The chef has been channeling - and updating - the legendary French master Escoffier.