They have fun with cocktails in the fresh air of the retractable roof deck at Maison 208, where classics get clever twists (a dirty margarita?) and the creative drinks get infused with charcoal, smoke, tea, vegetables, kombucha, and medicinal herbs. But this might be the first time I've encountered a cocktail that also first required a manager's trip to the hobby shop. That's right. Heads will turn when the "gin & terrarium" arrives at your table, because there appears to be an actual terrarium inside the big glass globe of an upside-down glass chalice. When it's lifted and turned right side up to become your punch bowl, you'll see a little forest scene inside perched over AstroTurf that director of operations Stephen Yaeger glues (along with some mini-train tracks) to a bark-rimmed board sliced from the heart of a tree. The foliage is actually a series mini-flower pots blooming with the fixings of a build-your-own gin and tonic. So then into the bowl goes a beaker of citrusy Tanqueray 10; whole sprigs of rosemary, thyme, lemongrass, cucumber, lime basil, and oranges; and then as much Q tonic as one desires. With a copper ladle to share it around, it's a snazzy way to rev up the evening with a communal blast of herbal brew. But what kind of herb, I wondered as I turn back to the diorama, was that little tree-shaped sprig, a garnish yet to be added? "Oh, that's a fake tree," replied our server, cautioning against trying to consume it. Maybe not. Or maybe. They could call it the "g & tree."

Gin & Terrarium, $30, Maison 208, 208 S. 13th St., 215-999-1020;