They say that barbecue is a regional thing. So it's not really all that surprising that the hottest new thing in Margate's barbecue scene is kippered smoked salmon. Of course, Downbeach BBQ's Dan Greenberg, a chiropractor by trade and pitmaster by passion, also makes some serious dry-rubbed pork spare ribs in the converted propane-tank smoker that has been an aromatic fixture at Margate's Thursday morning farmers' market that sets up in season behind Steve & Cookie's By the Bay. But the neighborhood's large Jewish contingent began asking for a local smoked-salmon fix, and after considerable experimentation, Greenberg has delivered some outstanding fish. No wonder he has been selling out his weekly 25-pound batch by 10:15 a.m. Unlike the cold-smoked variety most often found in stores, which has a glossy, uncooked texture, this fish is hot-smoked or "kippered" in a simple overnight cure, then slow-cooked at a low temperature in the warm mists of Jersey oak smoke. The resulting fish has a flaky, cooked consistency, but it's still incredibly moist and luscious, with a lightly sweet and vividly smoky profile that is ready for its beach-side schmear.

— Craig LaBan

Kippered smoked salmon,  $25 a pound, Downbeach BBQ (609-412-3561;, Thursday morning Margate Community Farmers' Market (behind Steve and Cookie's) at Monroe and Amherst.