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Glossy Scarpetta is eager to please but serves fine ingredients with little finesse

I spin through the revolving door into Scarpetta and land with a thud in a knot of patrons all dressed in black. This was a corporate posse in stilettos and mock turtlenecks, ready to spend big at Philly's latest name-brand Italian import from New York. But they were clogging the door near the bar, oblivious to others as they rattled cue ball-size ice cubes in cocktails and waited for a slinky, catsuit-clad hostess to lead them to the dining room upstairs.

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